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Fresh lemongrass pervades Vietnamese cooking in a lovely, lyrical way. Used lavishly in marinades, stews, and grilled foods, it provides a warm, tropical breeze entwining cool-climate dishes from the northern region, and refined royal fare from Hue, and the lush, ripe cooking of southern Vietnam. Fresh lemongrass stalks have joined fresh ginger in many supermarkets the past few years, and are standard in Asian markets. If your source is unreliable, buy a supply when you find some and freeze it. Chop off and discard the top half, pull off any dried outer leaves, wrap the bottom tightly, and use it straight from the freezer. It keeps well for several months. You can also buy finely ground lemongrass imported from Vietnam in clear plastic containers. Don’t bother with dried lemongrass and lemongrass powder, as xa’s remarkable flavor and aroma fade quickly once it is dried. Most dishes here either don’t require lemongrass.
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